May 05, 2017

Stories: Big Sur

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“There’s a little bit of a bump in this NW swell and the weather looks cold but decent. If we leave tonight we can get there in enough time to score that little beach break we found last trip early in the morning.” Considering it was the middle of winter, I hesitated, but still couldn’t say no. The appeal of a weekend on the road was far more enticing than staying back and relaxing. My life is always on the go, like one big adventure. “Screw it let’s go!” I said this without hesitation, leaving any obligations that I had behind.

We drove all night up to the Central Coast. As we got into Big Sur the cold crisp air sliced through the cracked window like a sharp knife. “Look at that little left” my friend in the backseat screamed as we drove along SR 1 heading North. The fog was intense in certain spots and there wasn’t a soul in sight. We’ve heard stories of this spot being insanely fishy, not the little ones we are used to either. I immediately whipped a U-turn as I saw a perfect little A-frame peeling down the coast. I roared with excitement, and then realized we couldn’t find beach access. But, we weren’t going to let this go.

After 45 minutes of searching we found a little road that looked like it had been paved years ago. As far as we know, it was extremely difficult to access this spot, so has it ever been surfed? That was the thrill that kept us on edge. We packed up our gear and trekked down, surfed for five hours trading off tubes with just three of us out! Were we dreaming? Sure felt like it. As the wind turned onshore we headed in. As the sun was setting we thought it was only appropriate to set up camp and crack some coldies. In my opinion there’s nothing better than gathering around the bonfire with stars above reminiscing on the day’s activities with your close friends.

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